Until a decade or two ago, it seemed that eating in Amsterdam was tinged more with the flavor of Calvinism than with any culinary influence. All too often the filling yet unenlightened fare of charred fish or meat, overboiled potatoes, and limp vegetables remained the standard.
Today, happily, things have changed. Many of the city's former industrial- and harbor-related buildings are being transformed into distinctive dining establishments. The term "New Dutch Cuisine," thanks to the emergence of young chefs who are finding their inspiration from around the globe, means exotic foamy-textured pea soup with chanterelles and pancetta, cod smothered in a sauce based on chorizo and fennel, or turbot and truffle wrapped in potato spaghetti, stewed chard, and veal sauce. And international urban eating trends make it highly probable that you'll encounter sushi shacks, soup shops, noodle joints, and organic bakeries selling hearty Mediterranean breads.
Although traditionally hearty Dutch food really shines only in the winter months, there are two imported-but-typically-Dutch culinary trips that cannot be missed: the Indonesian rijsttafel ("rice table"), where dozens of differently spiced vegetables, meats, and fish dishes are served with rice; and cheese fondue, which the Dutch appropriated from the Swiss probably because it appealed to their "one pot, many forks" sense of the democratic. The many cheap Suri/Indo/Chin (or some such combination) snack bars serve a combination of Suriname, Indonesian, and Chinese dishes, and although they are remarkably consistent, it is perhaps advisable to choose a dish that matches the cook's apparent roots.
If you're the type who likes to make your own discoveries, here are a few tips to keep in mind. In general, avoid the tourist traps around Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, the Damrak, and the Red Light District. Cheap global eats are concentrated in the De Pijp district. A broad selection of middle-range eateries can be found around Nieuwmarkt, the Jordaan, and Utrechtsestraat. To find posher purveyors for a true blowout, head to Reguliersdwarsstraat or the Nine Streets (the interconnecting streets of the canal girdle between Raadhuisstraat and Leidsestraat) areas. Befitting a casual town, children are pretty much universally welcomed in Amsterdam.
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